I was inspired to write tonight because I had a ridiculously Vietnamese twenty four hours, and since I haven't written in so long I thought you would enjoy this story. I woke up on Saturday morning, after an unusually late friday night, and remembered I was going to the countryside with my friend Thao. (Not one of my students, but the one I baked chocolate chip cookies and pies with!) After pulling myself together I took a xe om (motorbike taxi) to Thao's, because she lives on the other side of town and there was no way I was riding my bicycle there in the mid-day heat. Xe om drivers like to pretend they know where they are going just so you will choose, and therefore pay, them, but sometimes drive in circles until they magically find the place. This was my drive to Thao's. Luckily I had been there before (on baking day!) so with my slight memory and his slight knowledge I eventually found the place, but it wan't easy. (Sidenote: I haven't had any minutes on my phone for about a week. I'm tired of being attached to it, but I'm also really low on money so I'm just not motivated to buy more. People can call me and send me texts but I can't text back or make calls. This is what made finding Thao's house almost impossible.) So anyway, I made it and we walked to the ferry. The ferry is the only way into Can Tho (for now.. they are building a bridge, which I have previously written about before, which will make Can Tho way more accessible and even more touristy, but for now it's still a ferry ride to the next province.) I've never walked on the ferry before, I usually take a bus to wherever I am going, so it was new experience. Motorbikes try to push through as fast as they can to get a spot and if you are walking you really have to watch your step. If you are wearing shorts (which I was) you have to be extra careful because the exhaust thing on the side of the bike WILL burn your leg, and that is how close they are to you. I made it unscathed, but then had to climb over a few (literally climb) to get to the stairs to find Thao, who clearly had done this before. When we got off of the ferry we had to walk to the public bus (still the in midday heat) and I was literally dripping sweat. So, we sit down at a side-of-the-road coffee shop and just as I start to drink my drink a bus rolls (yes, rolls) up and she grabs her bag and says "Oh they're not going to stop!" And I had to jump onto the bus that was slowly rolling by. I've never actually rode a public bus in Vietnam before, so that was an experience. There was no air conditioning, which I was dying for, but we saved a lot more money not taking a tour company bus and the open windows actually provided a nice breeze.
After you get off of the ferry you are officially in Vinh Long, but we drove about an hour into it to arrive at Thao's family's house. We got dropped of at a bus stop (the bus did stop then) and waited to get picked on by some of her cousins. When I got to their house, although I picked up cues on the bus ride, I realized we were attending her cousin's wedding. I remembered her mom inviting me last time I saw her, but I also made plans to go to the countryside with Thao separately, and I did not put the two and two together. Welcome to being blindsided in Vietnam. Upon arriving Thao and I sat down at a table and were served about a four course meal... four full meals, for two people. I've already gone on about how I get force-fed, but especially in the country side they cook an incredible amount of food, and especially for weddings. The first course was obviously a soup with a mixture of things in it, but when I asked what it was the translation was "mixed soup." I had no idea what was in it, although I thought I tasted bacon which is strange because I haven't found any bacon since I've been here (pork, all of the time, but not in bacon form..) Then the next meal was a mixture of vegetables, which I had had before, so no shock there. Then a plate of meat comes our with bread and I get excited because I love bread, and all of the sauces are homemade and great for dipping. While already full from the first two meals, I eat some bread in this gravy, while I'm staring at how good the meat looks. After a while the meant went untouched so I had to ask about it... and thank god I did. It was pig stomach and tongue. I shivered a little just writing that. Since I had been staring at it for the last ten minutes I immediately felt nauseous and could no longer eat. Right when I thought I was going to be forced to eat it they offered me beef, and although I couldn't think of stomaching anything else, I accepted, because that meant I wouldn't have to eat whatever was in front of me. Crisis averted.
The rest of the afternoon we went to this separate island with Thao's mom, uncle, and cousins, which included another ferry ride, a nice motorbike ride through the countryside, and a tour of a fruit garden, where I had to continue to eat all of the fruit they were picking. After this I was so full I wanted to cry, incredibly hot, and extremely tired, still from the night before plus an exhausting day of eating. We went back to the house and I believe I took a short nap, and then had to get up and go to the party for the wedding, where again I ate five full meals. I've been having some stomach trouble anyway so after that I was pretty miserable, and luckily was able to go to bed around nine.
At 5AM I was woken up and told to get ready for the ceremony, which was at 6AM. There I was given cafe sua da, which use to be my favorite coffee, but I can't drink anymore. No more condensed milk for this American. So, still sick from the night before, I felt worse. Then after the ceremony we went on a bus back to Can Tho to the grooms house. All Vietnamese weddings have two ceremonies, one honoring each family (neither of which I can see or understand.) Then SURPRISE is the reception. What happens at a reception? EVERYONE EATS. And please don't forget that it's only 9Am, and these are not "breakfast foods" these are full meals that could be served for dinner. I looked at the menu and saw a list of six coursed and felt sick just reading it. I finally had to tell Thao that I really didn't think I could handle this I was feeling really sick. (I also had not showered or changed my clothes from the sweaty day I had before, and everyone else was dressed up and I felt out of place (as if being the only white person wasn't enough.) So she promised me I wasn't going to be forced to eat anything. Well the woman sitting next to me felt otherwise, and immediately filled up my bowl to the rim with a mixture of fried foods (still 9AM.) After the third meal I asked Thao if I could get a ride home. I thought about faking sick but then I actually felt really sick. It's now 9PM and I still feel really sick. Thao said something to the affect of "I know, every time I come to the countryside they always make me eat so much!" And my response was "Yeah that happens to me every time I'm in Vietnam." I'm not sure she fully grasped my sarcasm, but she did find me a ride home.
Not to make it sound like I had a terrible time. On the contrary, it was great. I just wanted to describe in full detail toe ins-and-outs of a pretty typical weekend. Thao's family was incredibly nice and welcoming. Her third uncle (co ba -literally means third uncle, so instead of "Uncle Randy" or "Uncle Ray" their names are uncle two, etc., in order of their birth) Anyway, he worked in the Navy on America's side during the war and he spoke broken English. He said he learned then but he hasn't spoken it since then, so it was exciting for me to have him feel comfortable to speak with me. I only understood about half of what he said, but that's where Thao's translating comes in. So overall, it was a really great time, and a lot of fun.. I'm just not sure I ever want to eat anything again.
Well I hope that keeps you amused for a little while. I'll try to keep writing even if it's only a little bit, I haven't forgotten about you I've just been preoccupied with other things!! I'm trying my best to keep up with your letters but I've had a lot lately so I'm sorry if you haven't heard from me. I'll try harder! :-)
